How to Plant and Grow Pachysandra

This plant almost mimics a lawn with the way it grows low and spreads nicely.

Pachysandra is a rugged, evergreen perennial with glistening foliage that looks good year-round. While it's considered a member of the boxwood family, pachysandra is typically grown as a groundcover. Plantings placed 6 to 12 inches apart take only about three years to establish dense mats of green.

In spring, short spikes of fragrant white flowers top pacysandra. The flowers' intense fragrance (similar to a jasmine or gardenia-like scent) appeals to many people, although others describe the smell as a flowery mothball. If you have a sensitive nose, be sure to test them out in bloom before purchasing the plants.

Pachysandra Overview

Genus Name Pachysandra
Common Name Pachysandra
Plant Type Perennial
Light Part Sun, Shade, Sun
Height 6 to 12 inches
Width 12 to 18 inches
Flower Color White
Foliage Color Blue/Green
Season Features Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom, Winter Interest
Special Features Good for Containers
Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Propagation Division, Stem Cuttings
Problem Solvers Deer Resistant, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control

Where to Plant Pachysandra

Pachysandra comes in two primary forms. One is native to the wooded areas of the southeastern United States, and the other (more common) form, Pachysandra terminalis, is native to Japan, Korea, and East Central China. Regardless of its origin, pachysandra tends to thrive in full to partial shade and prefers rich, well-drained soils.  

Pachysandra may be your solution if you struggle with bare patches under trees and shrubs. A multitasking problem solver, this plant grows low and spreads nicely, almost mimicking a lawn in the way its green foliage can carpet a garden bed. Pachysandra is also deer-resistant and can tolerate drought, shade, and heavy clay soils—making it perfect for hard-to-plant areas with little or no direct sunlight and poor soil.

Some forms of pachysandra are considered invasive in several mid-Atlantic states, including Pennsylvania, Virginia, Washington D.C., and Delaware. In particular, Pachysandra terminalis (a.k.a. Japanese pachysandra or Japanese surge) is considered an ecological threat as it can spread quickly and displace native vegetation while providing little benefit to native wildlife. Look for native varieties, like Pachysandra procumbens (a.k.a., Allegheny spurge) or consider a different groundcover plant in those areas. 

How and When to Plant Pachysandra

If purchased at a nursery, pachysandra will likely come in small pots or flats of small plants that can be planted in the early spring or early fall. If possible, choose an overcast day to lessen the threat of harsh sunlight while the plants get established.

For each plant, dig a small hole (about twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball) and place the plant in the hole. Use one hand to hold the plant upright as you backfill the hole with your other hand while tamping down the soil to remove air pockets. Fill the hole halfway, soak the soil with water, and continue to backfill until the soil is even with the top of the root ball. Place additional plants 8 to 12 inches apart in even rows to ensure even growth as the plants connect. The root system will take approximately 4 to 6 weeks to develop, after which your plants should be mostly self-sufficient.

Pachysandra Care Tips

Pachysandra is a shade-loving plant that will thrive and happily bloom in the darkest parts of your garden. It spreads with rhizomes and will cover bare ground when left to do its thing. Although vigorous, the plant rarely ventures past garden boundaries and into lawns. And if need be, dig pachysandra out and divide it to control spreading or move to new areas in the garden.

Light

Pachysandra thrives in full to partial shade. If exposed to full sun—especially high afternoon sun—the foliage is likely to bleach out or yellow, and growth may be hindered.

Soil and Water

Pachysandra is a good grower in evenly moist, slightly acidic soils (with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5). It is adaptable to other soils, but good drainage is critical: If your soil is too wet, the plant will develop root rot and die.

Plan to water your pachysandra regularly until the roots are established, but avoid overwatering and overhead watering, as both can lead to disease-causing fungi.

Temperature and Humidity

Pachysandra is a resilient plant that can tolerate temperatures at both ends of the spectrum for hardiness zones 4-9. However, in very humid environments, it is likely to suffer from fungal issues stemming from a lack of air circulation in the dense foliage.

Fertilizer

Fertilizer is not required with pachysandra, but you can apply a balanced fertilizer in late winter or early spring (before new growth arrives) if you fear your soil will not provide the nutrients needed for lush growth. Just be sure to avoid fertilizers that are overly rich in phosphorus, as they may cause your pachysandra to focus on flowering instead of producing new foliage.

Pruning

Pruning pachysandra is unnecessary, but occasionally pinching the plants back in the first few years can encourage a bushier growth habit. You can also thin out the tips of your plant in the spring if they become leggy or to promote air circulation (which will also lead to more dense growth). If you wish, use sharp pruning shears to cut the plants back by half.

If you have a bed of well-established pachysandra plants, you can also trim them with a lawnmower set high enough to avoid damaging the crown (about 4 inches). Just be sure that your mower blades are sharp.

Pests and Problems

One of the most common problems for pachysandra is leaf blight. This fungus appears first as spotting on leaves and spreads via splashing water, so it's best to avoid overhead watering when this fungus is present. In severe cases, fungicides may be needed or, ultimately, the removal of contaminated plants. While this will generally not kill your pachysandra, it can weaken them.

Another pest you may find on your pachysandra is the euonymus scale. This narrow, white, or gray insect covers the leaves. The scale harms pachysandra by latching on and creating a waxy covering over itself as it feeds off the plant's juices. Because of the hard waxy covering, scale pests are extremely hard to control. Manual removal and an insecticidal drench may be necessary in large infestations.

How to Propagate Pachysandra

Pachysandra spreads via underground rhizomes or stolons, which makes it easy to propagate through cuttings or division.

Propagate by Division

  • Water your pachysandra well in the spring approximately 24 hours before you dig it up.
  • When ready, dig down about 10 to 12 inches to isolate a 1-foot section of plants. Lift the clump and separate it with a sharp trowel or knife.
  • Make sure each section has viable roots and shoots and replant them immediately (approximately 12 inches apart).
  • Water your divided plants thoroughly and maintain consistently moist (but not wet) soil for the first two months after division.

Propagate by Cutting

  • Select a 3 to 6-inch piece from a healthy stem and snip it off below the leaves with sharp shears. Select a stem with leafy growth and avoid clipping stems with active buds or flowers.
  • Dip the cut edge of the stem in rooting hormone and insert it into a prepared pot filled with a moist mix of 3 parts compost and 1 part perlite.
  • Set your cutting in a bright but sheltered location and maintain consistently moist (but not wet) compost until the cutting takes root.
  • A root system will likely develop in 8 to 10 weeks. Once it has, you can transplant your cutting to a shaded garden bed or landscape spot.

Types of Pachysandra

Japanese spurge

Japanese Pachysandra
Derek Fell

Pachysandra terminalis carries whorls of glossy evergreen leaves and short spikes of fragrant white flowers in spring. It is hardy in zones 4-8 and is considered invasive in some mid-Atlantic states.

Variegated Japanese spurge

Variegated Pachysandra
Peter Krumhardt

Pachysandra terminalis 'Variegata' has slightly more grayish-green leaves than the species; they are frosted with an irregular white rim. The familiar spikes of white flowers bloom in spring. The variegated forms are less aggressive than the species, but it's still discouraged in some states. It is hardy in zones 4-8.

Allegheny Pachysandra

Pachysandra procumbens (a.k.a. mountain pachysandra, Allegheny pachysandra, or Allegheny spurge) is native to southeastern North America and more tolerant of warm climates than Japanese pachysandra. It is a shrubby perennial groundcover plant that typically grows about 8 to 12 inches tall and has matte blue-green leaves that are sometimes mottled with white and purple. It is not considered invasive and grows easily in zones 5 through 9.

Companion Plants for Pachysandra

Primrose

Primula Japonica Pink
W. Garrett Scholes

Take a walk down the primrose path, and you'll never look back! Collectors covet the hundreds of different primroses, especially some tiny rare alpine types. Many are staples of cottage and rock gardens; others provide spring color to damp places, rain gardens, and bog gardens. Their basal rosettes of oval leaves are often puckered or smooth. The colorful flowers emerge singly, in tiered clusters or even spikes. For best results, provide humus-high soil that retains moisture and some shade.

Cinnamon Fern

Cinnamon fern
Celia Pearson

Tall and elegant, these ferns look great in spring and summer thanks to their green fronds, but also in fall and winter when their upright reproductive fronds stand in the snow. They're excellent in damp soils and look especially at home beside ponds and streams. They may colonize large areas.

Hakone Grass

Japanese forestgrass
Peter Krumhardt

This grass's elegant, sweeping lines are so lovely that it's a favorite among gardeners. This Japanese forest grass is one of only a few ornamental grasses that thrive without sun, making it a great companion for the shade-loving pachysandra. Its mounding clumps of arching leaves gradually increase in size, never becoming invasive. Variegated cultivars are particularly attractive. All thrive in moisture-retaining, humus-rich soil and even tolerate dry conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Can pachysandra tolerate full sun?

    Pachysandra can tolerate some daily sunlight—especially if it is gentle, early morning sun. But Japanese pachysandra in particular will likely turn yellow or the leaves may scald if the plant is exposed to long stretches of sunlight. Pachysandra procumbens, the variety that is native to the southeastern portions of America is slightly more sun-tolerant but still prefers full to partial shade. If your pachysandra is getting too much sun, try adding shade or use a layer of mulch to keep the soil cooler.

  • Can pachysandra be transplanted?

    Yes. To transplant your pachysandra, treat it the same way you would if you were dividing it. In the spring, wet the soil at least 24 hours before you plan to move your plant. Dig it up and replant it in a new spot at the same depth it was planted before. Water well and maintain moist (but not wet) soil until the plant reestablishes itself (about 2 months).

  • Does pachysandra climb?

    Pachysandra is a non-climbing groundcover plant that spreads via underground rhizomes and stolons. It may crowd out other ground-based plants if left unattended, but it will not overtake trees and structures in the same way ivy, kudzu, or wisteria would.

  • Is pachysandra toxic?

    Pachysandra is not toxic to people or animals, so it's the perfect plant for areas where children and pets play frequently.

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Sources
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  1. Invasive Plants in Pennsylvania. Japanese Pachysandra. PA DCNR-Bureau of Forestry.

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